GSM indicates only the weight of the fabric, not its quality. A 200 g/m2 garment can last for many years or wear out quickly, depending on the quality of the knit, the fibres, the construction, the seams and the finishing. In this guide we explain how to choose custom clothing for embroidery and why GSM on its own can be misleading.

When you are looking for custom clothing for your company, association, group or brand, you will often come across descriptions such as "100% cotton", "240 GSM", "320 GSM" or "premium". These terms are often used as if they were a guarantee of quality.

The reality is different.

GSM is just one of the characteristics of a garment and, on its own, it does not determine quality, durability or comfort. In the same way, a 100% cotton composition does not automatically mean the piece is better.

At Bordados Custom, we work daily with custom clothing for companies, associations, motorbike clubs and private clients. Over the years we have tested countless items in real-life use and learned that quality depends on far more than a number on a spec sheet.

In this article we explain what really matters when you choose clothing to personalise with embroidery.

What does GSM or g/m2 mean?

GSM stands for grams per square metre (g/m2).

It is simply a measure of how much one square metre of that fabric weighs.

For example:

• a 180 g/m2 knit weighs 180 grams per square metre;
• a 320 g/m2 knit weighs 320 grams per square metre.

Nothing more.

This value only tells you how much material exists in that area of fabric.

The problem is that many people automatically associate a higher GSM with better quality, when that is not always true.

The same GSM can produce completely different garments

Imagine two t-shirts, both with 200 g/m2.

At first glance they seem equivalent.

In practice they can be completely different.

One may:

• keep its shape for years;
• remain comfortable after dozens of washes;
• withstand daily use;
• hold the embroidery steady.

While the other may:

• shrink after the first few washes;
• pill quickly;
• lose its shape;
• twist at the seams;
• feel uncomfortable to wear.

GSM only indicates the weight of the knit.

It says nothing about:

• the quality of the fibres;
• the quality of the yarn;
• the construction of the knit;
• wear resistance;
• production quality control;
• size consistency;
• the quality of the seams and finishing.

That is why comparing clothing by GSM alone can be misleading.

100% cotton does not automatically mean better quality

Another very common mistake is to assume that 100% cotton always means a superior garment.

It does not.

There are many types of cotton, different manufacturing processes and different quality levels.

Likewise, two fabrics can have exactly the same composition and behave in completely different ways.

A good example is polyester.

Fleece jackets are usually made from polyester.

600D Oxford fabric is also mostly polyester.

Both share the same main composition, but no one would say they are the same fabric.

The same applies to cotton.

A t-shirt, a pair of jeans and a raw canvas cloth can all be mostly cotton and still have completely different characteristics.

Composition alone never tells the full story.

What really defines the quality of a garment?

In our experience, the quality of a garment comes from a combination of several factors.

The most important ones are:

• fabric quality;
• dimensional stability after washing;
• wear resistance;
• pilling resistance;
• seam quality;
• size consistency;
• finishing quality;
• comfort during wear;
• how the garment performs after customisation.

We also pay close attention to the manufacturer's quality control.

Some brands have misaligned seams, crooked pockets, large differences between garments of the same size or inconsistent cuts.

For that reason, there are brands that we simply choose not to use.

Cheap clothing can end up costing a lot more

When a company chooses clothing based only on the lowest price to add custom embroidery, it is often combining one of the most durable customisation methods with a garment designed to last for very little time.

The most common problems are:

• pilling after just a few uses;
• shrinking;
• garment distortion;
• fabric being too thin to support certain embroidery designs;
• pulling around the embroidery;
• tearing during production in very fragile fabrics;
• discomfort while wearing it.

In hospitality, catering, industry and other companies with hundreds of employees, this problem becomes even more obvious.

If you have to replace hundreds of uniforms a few months later, the apparent initial savings disappear quickly.

In addition, visibly worn clothing gives customers an unprofessional impression.

A good embroidery deserves a good garment

Embroidery is still one of the most durable customisation techniques available.

Just look at many biker vests.

It is common to find embroidery used several times a week for 30, 40 or even 50 years and still perfectly recognisable.

It makes little sense to invest in a customisation method that can last decades and apply it to a garment designed to last only a few washes.

At Bordados Custom, we believe exactly the opposite.

We do not want to produce items meant to be replaced a few months later.

We want quality to be present at every stage:

• garment selection;
• technical preparation;
• materials;
• threads;
• needles;
• interfacing;
• labour;
• final finishing.

The goal is simple: the clothing should match the durability of the embroidery for as long as possible.

More GSM does not always mean more comfort

Another very common myth is that the higher the GSM, the better the garment will be.

Not always.

An extremely heavy t-shirt can become too warm, too stiff and not very comfortable for everyday use.

In the same way, there are lighter sweatshirts that are extremely comfortable for cool summer evenings and others that are much heavier and designed for winter temperatures.

GSM should be seen as one selection factor, never as a guarantee of quality.

Can thin fabrics be embroidered?

Yes.

There is a common belief that only very thick fabrics can be embroidered.

That is not true.

Well-known brands use embroidery on light fabrics, lycra, silk and other delicate materials.

The secret is not the GSM.

It is the experience of the person doing the embroidery.

It is necessary to adapt:

• the design;
• stitch density;
• fabric stabilisation;
• the thread used;
• the needle;
• the production technique.

Likewise, we also advise against certain very dense embroidery designs on garments where the result could compromise the wearer's comfort.

Our goal is never just to say "yes" to the customer's request.

It is to recommend the solution that gives the best technical result and the best wearing experience.

Comfort also depends on the inside of the embroidery

This is a detail that is rarely explained.

When a garment is embroidered, the inside matters too.

At Bordados Custom we use suitable interfacing for clothing and choose materials according to the intended use.

The goal is to keep the garment comfortable against the skin.

Unfortunately, there are still companies that leave too much interfacing, cut the back of the embroidery too aggressively or even burn the threads left over from automatic cutting with a lighter, creating rough little plastic balls on the inside of the garment.

These practices can make the garment uncomfortable to wear and reduce the final quality.

We prefer to spend more time during production to make sure the result is comfortable and durable.

How to care for embroidered clothing

Even a high-quality garment needs to be cared for properly.

To increase its lifespan, we recommend:

• washing at low temperatures;
• washing inside out whenever possible;
• avoiding high temperatures in the tumble dryer;
• letting it air dry naturally;
• always following the care instructions on the garment label.

Cotton can change when exposed to high temperatures, so these care steps help preserve both the clothing and the embroidery.

Is there affordable clothing that is still a good choice?

Yes.

Not every project requires premium clothing.

For one- or two-day events, promotional campaigns or temporary actions, an affordable garment can be perfectly suitable.

The important thing is to choose according to the intended use.

For daily uniforms, hospitality, catering, industry, retail or any situation where clothing will be worn and washed frequently, investing in a higher-quality garment usually ends up being the more economical option in the long run.

Conclusion

Choosing custom clothing only by GSM or fabric composition is too simplistic.

True quality comes from the combination of good materials, solid construction, quality control, comfort, durability and a customisation technique that is executed properly.

At Bordados Custom, we help each client choose the garment that best suits their project, their available budget and the intended use.

Because a good embroidery deserves a garment that can keep up with it for many years.

Frequently asked questions

What does GSM mean in clothing?

GSM stands for Grams per Square Metre. It is a measure that indicates the weight of one square metre of fabric. This value helps you understand whether a knit is lighter or heavier, but it does not determine, by itself, the quality, durability or comfort of a garment.

Is a t-shirt with more GSM always better?

No. A higher GSM only means there is more material per square metre. Clothing quality also depends on the quality of the fibres, the construction of the knit, wear resistance, seams, finishing and the manufacturer's quality control.

Does 100% cotton mean the clothing is better quality?

Not necessarily. There are different types of cotton and different manufacturing processes. Two garments can both be 100% cotton and behave very differently in terms of comfort, resistance, shrinkage and durability.

What is the best GSM for custom clothing?

There is no ideal GSM for every case. The choice depends on the intended use, the type of fabric, the comfort you want and the customisation technique. A lower-GSM garment can perform better than a heavier one, as long as it is made with higher-quality materials.

Which clothing is best for custom embroidery?

The best clothing for embroidery is the one that combines good manufacturing quality with a fabric suited to the type of embroidery. It is also important to consider how the garment will be used, how often it will be washed and the final result you want. At Bordados Custom, we help each client choose the option that best fits their project.

Can you embroider thin fabric?

Yes. Lighter fabrics can also be embroidered with excellent results. The key is to correctly adapt the design, stitch density, fabric stabilisation, thread, needle and the production technique used.

How can I stop embroidered clothing from shrinking or losing shape?

In addition to choosing a high-quality garment, it is important to follow the recommended washing instructions. Washing at moderate temperatures, avoiding harsh cycles, air drying whenever possible and respecting the care label all help preserve both the clothing and the embroidery.

What is the best brand of clothing for embroidery?

There is no single answer. There are several excellent brands, and the right choice depends on the budget, the intended use and the type of customisation. At Bordados Custom, we only select brands that offer good manufacturing consistency, dimensional stability and reliable results after embroidery.

Is it worth investing in higher-quality clothing?

In our opinion, yes, almost always.

A higher-quality garment tends to last longer, keep its appearance better after washing, withstand daily use more effectively and preserve the embroidery quality for many years.

For companies, this choice reduces the need to replace uniforms frequently and often ends up being a saving in the long run.

For private customers, it makes sense too. A garment that lasts for several years avoids repeated purchases, reduces waste and has a lower environmental impact. Instead of replacing clothing constantly, you invest in a piece designed to stay with the wearer for much longer.

At Bordados Custom, we believe a good embroidery deserves a good garment. We prefer to produce items that continue to be worn for many years rather than contribute to a culture of fast consumption and constant replacement.